Any modern refrigerator is a complex system, where the majority of parts interact with each other. In case of damage of one part, the entire system can fall out, if a breakdown is not corrected in time. The diagnostics of malfunction contributing to the further professional repairs of a refrigerator is the key objective of troubleshooting tables with faults` codes for kenmore refrigerators presented below.
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Refrigerator and Freezer section are not cooling. | The refrigerator control is set to OFF (some models). | Turn the control ON. |
| Refrigerator is set to demo mode. | Demo Mode allows the lights and control display to work normally while disabling cooling to save energy while on the showroom floor. | |
| Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may rise slightly. Wait 30 minutes and confirm the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Refrigerator was recently installed. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature. | |
| Refrigerator was recently relocated. | If the refrigerator was stored for a long period of time or moved on its side, it is necessary for the refrigerator to stand upright for 24 hours before connecting It to power. | |
| Cooling System runs too much. | Refrigerator is replacing an older model. | Modern refrigerators require more operating time but use less energy due to more efficient technology. |
| Refrigerator was recently plugged In or power restored. | The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool completely. | |
| Door opened often or a large amount of food / hot food was added. | Adding food and opening the door warms the refrigerator, requiring the compressor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food Is removed. | |
| Doors are not closed completely. | Firmly push the doors shut. If they will not shut all the way | |
| Refrigerator is installed in a hot location. | The compressor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures (70°F) expect your compressor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more often. The refrigerator should not be operated above 110°F. | |
| Condenser / back cover is clogged. | Use a vacuum cleaner with an attachment to clean the condenser cover and vents. Do not remove the panel covering the condenser coil area. | |
| Problem | Possible Causes | Solutions |
| Refrigerator or Freezer section is too warm. | Refrigerator was recently installed. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature. |
| Air vents are blocked. | Rearrange items to allow air to flow throughout the compartment. | |
| Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment. To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. | |
| Unit is installed in a hot location. | The refrigerator should not be operated in temperatures above 110F. | |
| A large amount of food or hot food was added to either compartment. | Adding food warms the compartment requiring the cooling system to run. Allowing hot food to cool to room temperature before putting it in the refrigerator will reduce this effect. | |
| Doors not closed correctly. | See the Doors will not close correctly or pop open section in Parts & Features Troubleshooting. | |
| Temperature control is not set correctly. | If the temperature is too warm, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. | |
| Defrost cycle has recently completed. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may raise slightly and condensation may form on the back wall. Wait 30 minutes and confirm the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Interior moisture buildup. | Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment. To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. |
| Doors not closed correctly. | ||
| Weather is humid. | Humid weather allows additional moisture to enter the compartments when the doors are opened leading to condensation or frost. Maintaining a reasonable level of humidity in the home will help to control the amount of moisture that can enter the compartments. | |
| Defrost cycle recently completed. | During the defrost cycle, the temperature of each compartment may rise slightly and condensation may form on the back wall. Wait 30 minutes and confirm that the proper temperature has been restored once the defrost cycle has completed. | |
| Food is not packaged correctly. | Food stored uncovered or unwrapped, and damp containers can lead to moisture accumulation within each compartment. Wipe all containers dry and store food in sealed packaging to prevent condensation and frost. | |
| Food is freezing in the refrigerator compartment. | Food with high water content was placed near an air vent. | Rearrange items with high water content away from air vents. |
| Refrigerator temperature control is set incorrectly. | If the temperature is too cold, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. | |
| Refrigerator is installed in a cold location. | When the refrigerator Is operated in temperatures below 41°F (5°C), food can freeze in the refrigerator compartment. The refrigerator should not be operated in temperatures below 55 F (13°C). | |
| Frost or ice crystals form on frozen food (outside of package). | Door is opened frequently or for long periods of time. | When the doors are opened often or for long periods of time, warm, humid air enters the compartment. This raises the temperature and moisture level within the compartment. Increased moisture will lead to frost and condensation. To lessen the effect, reduce the frequency and duration of door openings. |
| Door is not closing properly. | ||
| Refrigerator or Freezer section is too cold. | Incorrect temperature control settings. | If the temperature is too cold, adjust the control one increment at a time and wait for the temperature to stabilize. |
| Frost or ice crystals on frozen food (inside of sealed package). | Condensation from food with a high water content has frozen inside of the food package. | This is normal for food items with a high water content. |
| Food has been left in the freezer for a long period of time. | Do not store food items with high water content in the freezer for a long period of time. | |
| Items in the Cheese & Butter and Condiment bins are not as cool as other items in the refrigerator. | The Cheese & Butter and Condiment bins will be slightly warmer than the refrigerator compartment. | This is normal. Items that you would like to keep cooler should be stored in the refrigerator section. |
| Icemaker is not making enough ice. | Demand exceeds ice storage capacity. | The icemaker will produce approximately 70^210 cubes in a 24 hour period. |
| House water supply is not connected, valve is not turned on fully, or valve is clogged. | Connect the refrigerator to a cold water supply with adequate pressure and turn the water shutoff valve fully open. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber. | |
| Water filter has been exhausted. | It is recommended that you replace the water filter: • Approximately every six months. • When the water filter indicator turns on. • When the water dispenser output decreases. • When the ice cubes are smaller than normal. | |
| Low house water supply pressure. | The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 psi on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 psi on models with a water filter. | |
| Reverse Osmosis filtration system is used. | Reverse osmosis filtration systems can reduce the water pressure below the minimum amount and result in icemaker issues. | |
| Tubing connecting refrigerator to house supply valve is kinked. | Straighten or repair the water supply line and arrange it to prevent future kinks. | |
| Icemaker Is not making enough ice (continued). | Doors are opened often or for long periods of time. | If the doors of the unit are opened often, ambient air will warm the refrigerator which will prevent the unit from maintaining the set temperature. Lowering the refrigerator temperature can help, as well as not opening the doors as frequently. |
| Doors are not closed completely. | If the doors are not properly closed, ice production will be affected. | |
| The temperature setting for the freezer is too warm. | The recommended temperature for the freezer compartment for normal ice production is 0°F. If the freezer temperature is warmer, ice production will be affected. | |
| Dispensing water slowly. | Water filter has been exhausted. | It is recommended that you replace the water filter: • Approximately every six months. • When the water filter indicator turns on. • When the water dispenser output decreases. • When the ice cubes are smaller than normal. |
| Reverse osmosis filtration system is used. | Reverse osmosis filtration systems can reduce the water pressure below the minimum amount and result in icemaker issues. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber. | |
| Low house water supply pressure. | The water pressure must be between 20 and 120 psi on models without a water filter and between 40 and 120 psi on models with a water filter. If the problem persists, it may be necessary to contact a plumber. | |
| Not dispensing ice. | Doors are not closed completely. | Ice will not dispense if any of the refrigerator doors are left open. |
| Infrequent use of the dispenser. | Infrequent use of the ice dispenser will cause the cubes to stick together over time, which will prevent them from properly dispensing. Check the ice bin for ice cubes clumping/sticking together. If they are, break up the ice cubes to allow for proper operation. | |
| The delivery chute is clogged with frost or ice fragments. | Eliminate the frost or ice fragments by removing the ice bin and clearing the chute with a plastic utensil. Dispensing cubed ice can also help prevent frost or ice fragment buildup. | |
| The dispenser display is locked. | Press and hold the Lock button for three seconds to unlock the control panel and dispenser. | |
| Ice bin is empty. | It may take up to 24 hours for each compartment to reach the desired temperature and for the icemaker to begin making ice. Make sure that the shutoff (arm/ sensor) is not obstructed. Once the ice supply in the bin has been completely exhausted, it my take up to 90 minutes before additional ice is available, and approximately 24 hours to completely refill the bin. | |
| Ice has bad taste or odor. | Water supply contains minerals such as sulfur. | A water filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems. NOTE: In some cases, a filter may not help. It may not be possible to remove all minerals / odor / taste in all water supplies. |
| Icemaker was recently installed. | Discard the first few batches of ice to avoid discolored or bad tasting ice. | |
| Ice has been stored for too long. | Ice that has been stored for too long will shrink, become cloudy, and may develop a stale taste. Throw away old ice and make a new supply. | |
| The food has not been stored properly in either compartment. | Rewrap the food. Odors may migrate to the ice if food is not wrapped properly. | |
| The interior of the refrigerator needs to be cleaned. | ||
| The ice storage bin needs to be cleaned. | Empty and wash the bin (discard old cubes). Make sure that the bin is completely dry before reinstalling it. | |
| Dispensing warm water. | Refrigerator was recently installed. | Allow 24 hours after installation for the water storage tank to cool completely. |
| The water dispenser has been used recently and the storage tank was exhausted. | Depending on your specific model, the water storage capacity will range from approximately 20 to 30 oz. | |
| Dispenser has not been used for several hours. | If the dispenser has not been used for several hours, the first glass dispensed may be warm. Discard the first 10 oz. | |
| Refrigerator is connected to the hot water supply. | Make sure that the refrigerator is connected to a cold water pipe. A WARNING: Connecting the refrigerator to a hot water line may damage the icemaker. | |
| Water has bad taste or odor. | Water supply contains minerals such as sulfur. | A water filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems. |
| Water filter has been exhausted. | It is recommended that you replace the water filter: • Approximately every 6 months. • When the water filter indicator turns on. • When the water dispenser output decreases. • When the ice cubes are smaller than normal. | |
| Refrigerator was recently installed. | Dispense 2.5 gallons of water (flush for approximately 5 minutes) to remove trapped air and contaminants from the system. Do not dispense the entire 2.5 gallon amount continuously. Depress and release the dispenser pad for cycles of 30 seconds ON and 60 seconds OFF. | |
| Icemaker is making too much ice. | Icemaker shutoff (arm/sensor) is obstructed. | Empty the ice bin. If your icemaker is equipped with an ice shutoff arm, make sure that the arm moves freely. If your icemaker is equipped with the electronic ice shutoff sensor, make sure that there is a clear path between the two sensors. Reinstall the ice bin and wait 24 hours to confirm proper operation. |
| Clicking | The defrost control will click when the automatic defrost cycle begins and ends. The thermostat control (or refrigerator control on some models) will also click when cycling on and off. | Normal Operation |
| Rattling | Rattling noises may come from the flow of refrigerant, the water line on the back of the unit, or items stored on top of or around the refrigerator. | |
| Refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor. | Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need to be adjusted. | |
| Refrigerator with linear compressor was jarred while running. | Normal Operation | |
| Whooshing | Evaporator fan motor is circulating air through the refrigerator and freezer compartments. | |
| Air is being forced over the condenser by the condenser fan. | ||
| Gurgling | Refrigerant flowing through the cooling system. | |
| Popping | Contraction and expansion of the inside walls due to changes in temperature. | |
| Sizzling | Water dripping on the defrost heater during a defrost cycle. | |
| Vibrating | If the side or back of the refrigerator is touching a cabinet or wall, some of the normal vibrations may make an audible sound. | To eliminate the noise, make sure that the sides and back cannot vibrate against any wall or cabinet. |
| Dripping | Water running into the drain pan during the defrost cycle. | Normal Operation |
| Pulsating or High-Pitched Sound | Your refrigerator is designed to run more efficiently to keep your food items at the desired temperature. The high efficiency compressor may cause your new refrigerator to run longer than your old one, but It is still more energy efficient than previous models. While the refrigerator is running, it is normal to hear a pulsating or high-pitched sound. | |
| Doors will not close correctly or pop open. | Food packages are blocking the door open. | Rearrange food containers to clear the door and door shelves. |
| Ice bin, crisper cover, pans, shelves, door bins, or baskets are out of position. | Push bins all the way in and put crisper cover, pans, shelves and baskets into their correct positions. | |
| The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced. | Remove and replace the doors according to the Removing and Replacing Refrigerator Handles and Doors section. | |
| Refrigerator is not leveled properly. | ||
| Doors are difficult to open. | The gaskets are dirty or sticky. | Clean the gaskets and the surfaces that they touch. Rub a thin coat of appliance polish or kitchen wax on the gaskets after cleaning. |
| Door was recently closed. | When you open the door, warmer air enters the refrigerator. As the warm air cools, it can create a vacuum. If the door is hard to open, wait one minute to allow the air pressure to equalize, then see if it opens more easily. | |
| Refrigerator wobbles or seems unstable. | Leveling legs are not adjusted properly. | |
| Floor is not level. | It may be necessary to add shims under the leveling legs or rollers to complete installation. | |
| Lights do not work. | LED interior lighting failure. | The refrigerator compartment lamp is LED interior lighting, and service should be performed by a qualified technician. |
| Refrigerator has an unusual odor. | The Air Filter may need to be set to the MAX setting or replaced. | Set the Air Filter to the MAX setting. If the odor does not go away within 24 hours, the filter may need to be replaced. |
| The interior of the refrigerator is covered with dust or soot. | The refrigerator is located near a fire source, such as a fireplace, chimney or candle. | Make sure that the refrigerator is not located near a fire source, such as a fireplace, chimney or candle. |
There are over 140 refrigerators within the Kenmore 253 series. The lineup is rather versatile in terms of features, capacity and even type. You can find both side-by-side refrigerators and top mount freezer refrigerators.
| Problem | Solutions |
|---|---|
| Refrigerator does not run. | • Ensure plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet. • Check/replace fuse with a 15 amp time-delay fuse. Reset circuit breaker. • The temperature control is turned to “0”. • Refrigerator may be in defrost cycle. Wait 20 minutes and check again. |
| Freezer temperature too cold. Refrigerator temperature is satisfactory. | • Set freezer control to a warmer setting until freezer temperature is satisfactory. Allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize. |
| Refrigerator temperature too cold. Freezer temperature is satisfactory. | • Set refrigerator control to a warmer setting. Allow 24 hours for temperature to stabilize. Then check freezer temperatures and adjust as needed. |
| Refrigerator is noisy or vibrates. | • The cabinet is not level. • Floor is weak. |
| Odors in refrigerator. | • Interior needs to be cleaned. • Foods that produce odors should be covered or wrapped. |
| Cabinet light not working. | • Replace light bulb. • Ensure plug is tightly pushed into electrical outlet. • Light switch may be stuck. Push in light switch, located on the refrigerator control box, to release. |
| Automatic ice maker not working, (some models) | • Ensure the Wire Signal Arm is not in UP position. • Ice maker should produce 4 to 5 pounds of ice in a 24 hour period. • Water supply is turned off. • Water pressure is too low. • The freezer is not cold enough. |
Kenmore 596 is a really diverse range of refrigerators comprising over 170 models. There are different types of refrigerators, including full-size side-by-side fridges, bottom mount French door fridges, as well as bottom freezers.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | WHAT TO DO |
|---|---|---|
| Freezer control and lights are on, but compressor is not operating | • Refrigerator is in defrost mode. | • Normal operation. Wait 40 minutes to see if refrigerator restarts. |
| Crisper drawer temperature is too warm | • Refrigerator control settings are too low. | |
| Refrigerator does not operate | • Refrigerator is not plugged in. • Control is not on. • Fuse is blown, or circuit breaker needs to be reset. • Power outage has occurred. | • Plug in refrigerator. • Replace any blown fuses. Check circuit breaker and reset if necessary. • Call local power company listing to report outage. |
| Refrigerator still won’t operate | • Refrigerator is malfunctioning. | • Unplug refrigerator and transfer food to another refrigerator. If another refrigerator is not available, place dry ice in freezer section to preserve food. Warranty does not cover food loss. |
| Food temperature is too cold | • Condenser coils are dirty. | |
| • Refrigerator or freezer controls are set too high. | ||
| Food temperature is too warm | • Door is not closing properly. • Controls need to be adjusted. • Condenser coils are dirty. • Rear air grille is blocked. • Door has been opened frequently, or has been opened for long periods of time. • Food has recently been added. | • Refrigerator is not level. • Check gaskets for proper seal. • Check for internal obstructions that are keeping door from closing properly (i.e. Improperly closed drawers, ice buckets, oversized or improperly stored containers, etc.) • Check the positioning of food items in refrigerator to make sure grille is not blocked. Rear air grilles are located under crisper drawers. • Reduce time door is open. Organize food items efficiently to assure door is open for as short a time as possible. • Allow time for recently added food to reach refrigerator or freezer temperature. |
| Refrigerator has an odor | • Compartment is dirty or has odor- causing food. | |
| Water droplets fomi on outside of refrigerator | • Check gaskets for proper seal. | |
| • Humidity levels aie high. | • Hot. humid weather can increase condensation. Press button on control to reduce moisture. | |
| • Controls require adjustment. | ||
| Freezer control and lights are on, but compressor is not operating | • Refrigerator is in defrost mode. | • Normal operation. |
| Wait 40 minutes to see if refrigerator restarts. | ||
| Crisper drawer temperature is too warm | • Refrigerator control settings are too low. | |
| Refrigerator does not operate | • Refrigerator is not plugged in. | • Plug in refrigerator. |
| • Control is not on. | ||
| • Fuse is blown, or circuit breaker needs to be reset. | • Replace any blown fuses. Check circuit breaker and reset if necessary. | |
| • Power outage has occurred. | • Call local power company listing to report outage. | |
| Refrigerator still won’t operate | • Refrigerator is malfunctioning. | • Unplug refrigerator and transfer food to another refrigerator. If another refrigerator is not available, place dry ice in freezer section to preserve food. Warranty does not cover food loss. |
| Food temperature is too cold | • Condenser coils are dirty. | |
| • Refrigerator or freezer controls are set too high. | ||
| Food temperature is too warm | • Door is not closing properly. • Controls need to be adjusted. • Condenser coils are dirty. • Rear air grille is blocked. • Door has been opened frequently, or has been opened for long periods of time. • Food has recently been added. | • Refrigerator is not level. • Check gaskets for proper seal. • Check for internal obstructions that are keeping door from closing properly (i.e. Improperly closed drawers, ice buckets, oversized or improperly stored containers, etc.) • Check the positioning of food items in refrigerator to make sure grille is not blocked. Rear air grilles are located under crisper drawers. • Reduce time door is open. Organize food items efficiently to assure door is open for as short a time as possible. • Allow time for recently added food to reach refrigerator or freezer temperature. |
| Refrigerator has an odor | • Compartment is dirty or has odor- causing food. | |
| Water droplets fomi on outside of refrigerator | • Check gaskets for proper seal. | |
| • Humidity levels aie high. | • Hot. humid weather can increase condensation. Press button on control to reduce moisture. | |
| • Controls require adjustment. | ||
| Refrigerator is leaking water | • Plastic tubing was used to complete water connection. | • The manufacturer recommends using copper tubing for installation. Plastic is less durable and can cause leakage Sears is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. |
| • Improper saddle valve was installed. | • Check water connection procedure. Self-piercing and flr saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line over time Sears is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. | |
| Ice forms in inlet tube to Ice maker | • Water pressure is too low. | • Water pressure must be between 35 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for refrigerators with water filters. |
| • Freezer temperature is loo high. | • Adjust freezer control. Freezer is recommended to be approximately 0" F (-18° C). | |
| Water flow is slower than normal | • Water pressure is too low. | • Water pressure must be between 35 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for refrigerators with water filters. |
| • Improper saddle valve was installed. | • Check water connection procedure in your Installation Instructions. Self-piercing and V saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line over lime. Sears is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. Open water valve completely and check for leaks. | |
| • Copper tubing has kinks. | • Turn off water supply and remove kinks. If kinks cannot be removed, replace tubing. |
Within the Kenmore 795 lineup one can find several types of refrigerator appliances. In addition to classic side-by-side refrigerators and top freezers, there are also two types of bottom freezers: two-door and three-door (French door) refrigerators.
| Check if... | Then... |
|---|---|
| The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
| A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker tripped. | Replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker. |
| The refrigerator control is set to the OFF position. | |
| Refrigerator is in the defrost cycle. | Wait about 30 minutes for defrost cycle to end. |
| The refrigerator is not resting solidly on the floor. | Floor is weak or uneven or leveling legs need adjusting. |
| The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
| Light bulb is loose in the socket. | Turn the refrigerator control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then plug in refrigerator and reset the refrigerator control. |
| Light bulb has burned out. | Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size and shape available at your local hardware store. Turn the temperature control to the OFF position and unplug the refrigerator prior to replacement. |
| The refrigerator that was replaced was an older model. | Modem refrigerators with more storage space require more operating time. |
| The room temperature is hotter than normal. | The motor will run longer under warm conditions. At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect it to run even more often. |
| The door is opened often or a large amount of food has just been added. | Adding food and opening the door warms the refrigerator. |
| It is normal for the refrigerator to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find and close the door as soon as the food is removed. | |
| The refrigerator was recently plugged in and the refrigerator control was set correctly. | The refrigerator will take up to 24 hours to cool completely. |
| The refrigerator control is not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | |
| The doors are not closed completely. | Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way, see Doors will not close completely below. |
| The condenser coils are dirty. | This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. |
| The refrigerator is not level. | |
| Food packages are blocking the door open. | Rearrange food containers to clear door and door shelves. |
| The ice bin, crisper cover, pans, shelves, door bins or baskets are out of position. | Push bins all the way in and put crisper cover, pans, shelves and baskets into their correct positions. |
| The gaskets are sticking. | Clean gaskets and the surface that they touch. Rub a thin coat of paraffin wax on the gaskets after cleaning. |
| The refrigerator wobbles or seems unstable. | Level the refrigerator. |
| The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced. | Remove and replace |
| The door is not closing properly. | See Doors will not close completely above. |
| The door is opened often. | When the door is opened, warm, humid air is allowed in the freezer, resulting in frost. |
| The icemaker was recently installed. | Discard first few batches of ice to avoid discolored or off- flavored ice. |
| The ice has been stored for too long. | Throw away old ice and make new supply. |
| The food has not been wrapped tightly in either compartment. | Rewrap foods since odors may migrate to the ice if food is not wrapped properly. |
| The water supply contains minerals such as sulfur. | A filter may need to be installed to eliminate taste and odor problems. |
| The interior of refrigerator needs cleaning. | |
| Ice storage bin needs cleaning. | Empty and wash bin. Discard old cubes. |
| The refrigerator is defrosting. | The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan. |
| It is more humid than normal. | Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid. |
| The sounds may be normal for your refrigerator. | |
| The freezer temperature is cold enough to produce ice. | Wait 24 hours after hook-up for ice production. |
| Door left open. | Check to see if something is holding the door open. |
| Smaller cube size level is selected. | Select larger cube size using cube size selector. |
| Water shutoff valve connecting refrigerator to water line may be clogged. | Call a plumber to clear the valve. |
| The gaskets are dirty or sticky. | Clean gaskets and the surfaces that they touch. Rub a thin coat of appliance polish or kitchen wax on the gaskets after cleaning. |
| The door is reopened within a short time after having been opened. | When you open the door, warmer air enters the refrigerator. As the warm air cools, it can create a vacuum. If the door is hard to open, wait 5 minutes to allow the air pressure to equalize, then see if it opens more easily. |
| The air vents are blocked. Cold air circulates from the freezer to the fresh food section and back again through air vents in the wall dividing the two sections. | Locate air vents by using your hand to sense airflow and move all packages that block vents and restrict airflow. |
| The doors are opened often. | When the door is opened, warm humid air is allowed into the refrigerator. The more the door is opened, the faster the humidity builds up, and the more warm air the refrigerator must cool. In order to keep the refrigerator cool, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find and close the door as soon as the food is removed. |
| The control is not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | |
| Wait 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize or even out. If the temperature is too cold or too warm, move the dial one number at a time. | |
| A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer. | Adding food warms the refrigerator. It can take a few hours for the refrigerator to return to normal temperature. |
| The food is not packaged correctly. | Wrap food tightly and wipe off damp containers prior to storing in the refrigerator to avoid moisture accumulation. |
| If necessary, repackage food | |
| The doors are not closing completely. The weather is humid. | |
| In humid weather, air carries moisture into refrigerator when doors are opened. | |
| A self-defrost cycle was completed. | It is normal for droplets to form on the back wall after the refrigerator self-defrosts. |
The Kenmore refrigerator-freezer 461 lineup comprises full-size two-door refrigerators with a freezer on the top. Additionally, there are several compact models in the 461 range, that are usually considered a smart choice for a small kitchen.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSE | SOLUTION |
|---|---|---|
| 1) Unit does not work. | • No power to unit. | • Check connection of power cord at power source. |
| • Power cord is unplugged. | • Plug in unit. | |
| • Wrong voltage is being used. | • Use proper voltage. | |
| 2) Refrigerator running too frequently. | • Temperature control too high. | • Check/adjust settings as needed. |
| • Door not closed. | • Close the door securely. | |
| • Hot food inserted. | • Cool food before inserting. | |
| • Doors open too long/often. | • Minimize door openings/duration. | |
| • Close proximity to heat source or direct sunlight. | • DO NOT place unit close to heat sources or in direct sunlight. | |
| 3) Internal Temperature too cold. | • Temperature set too low. | • Check/adjust settings as needed. |
| 4) Internal Temperature not cold enough. | • No power to unit. | • Check connection of power cord at power source. |
| • Power cord is unplugged. | • Plug in unit. | |
| • Wrong voltage is being used. | • Use proper voltage. | |
| • Temperature control too low. | • Check/adjust settings as needed. | |
| • Hot food inserted. | • Cool food before inserting. | |
| • Doors open too long/often. | • Minimize door openings/duration. | |
| • Air flow obstruction. | • Allow room for air to circulate around the unit. | |
| • Close proximity to heat source or direct sunlight. | • DO NOT place unit close to heat sources or in direct sunlight. | |
| 5) Freezer not cold enough. | • Temperature control too low. | • Check/adjust settings as needed. |
| • Door not closed. | • Close door securely. | |
| • Hot food inserted. | • Cool food before inserting. | |
| • Doors open too long/often. | • Minimize door openings/ duration. | |
| • Wrong voltage is being used. | • Use proper voltage. | |
| 6) Light will not work. | • No power to unit. | • Check connection of power cord to power source. |
| • Power cord is unplugged. | • Plug in unit. | |
| • Bulb is loose/needs replacing. | • Tighten or replace bulb. | |
| • Door switch is stuck. | • Check the switch for obstructions, clean if necessary. |