Any modern refrigerator is a complex system, where the majority of parts interact with each other. In case of damage of one part, the entire system can fall out, if a breakdown is not corrected in time. The diagnostics of malfunction contributing to the further professional repairs of a refrigerator is the key objective of troubleshooting tables with faults` codes for maytag refrigerators presented below.
The range of Maytag French door refrigerators currently includes over a dozen models. Some of the innovations include steel shelves with undershelf LED lighting, the PowerCold feature, and an adjustable-temperature refrigerated drawer.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | SOLUTIONS |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator will not operate | Check electrical supply | Plug the power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. |
| Do not use an extension cord. | ||
| Make sure there is power to the outlet. Plug in a lamp to see if the outlet is working. | ||
| Reset a tripped circuit breaker. Replace any blown fuses. NOTE: If problems continue, contact an electrician. | ||
| Check controls | Make sure the controls are turned on. | |
| New installation | Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely. NOTE: Adjusting the temperature controls to the coldest setting will not cool either compartment more quickly. | |
| Refrigerator control is in Showroom mode (on some models) | If the refrigerator is in Showroom mode, cooling is turned off and "Showroom" will be illuminated on the control panel. | |
| The motor seems to run too much | High efficiency compressor and fans | Larger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds. |
| The room or outdoor temperature is hot. | It is normal for the refrigerator to work longer under these conditions. For optimum performance, place the refrigerator in an indoor, temperature controlled environment. | |
| A large amount of warm food has been recently added. | Warm food will cause the refrigerator to run longer until the air cools to the desired temperature. | |
| The door(s) are opened too frequently or for too long. | Warm air entering the refrigerator causes it to run more. Open the door less often. | |
| The refrigerator door or freezer drawer is ajar. | Make sure the refrigerator is level. | |
| The refrigerator control is set too cold. | Adjust the refrigerator control to a less cold setting until the refrigerator temperature is as desired. | |
| The door or drawer gasket is dirty, worn, or cracked. | Clean or change the gasket. Leaks in the door seal will cause the refrigerator to run longer in order to maintain desired temperatures. | |
| The lights do not work | Your refrigerator is equipped with LED lighting which does not need to be replaced. | If there is power to the refrigerator and the lights do not illuminate when a door or drawer is opened, call for service or assistance. |
| The dispenser light is set to OFF | On some models, the dispenser light will operate only when a dispenser paddle is pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on continuously | |
| Doors have been open longer than 10 minutes | Close the doors and drawer to reset, and open to resume lighted task. | |
| Pantry Temperature Control not lit/unresponsive | The refrigerator is in Cooling Off mode | Exit Cooling Off mode. |
| The refrigerator controls' initialization process did not complete successfully. | Unplug the refrigerator, wait 5 seconds. Plug in the refrigerator, and wait 30 seconds before opening any of the refrigerator doors or touching the control panel. | |
| The refrigerator seems noisy Below are listed some normal sounds with explanations. | The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently while using less energy, and operates quietly. Due to this reduction in operating noise you may notice unfamiliar noises that are normal. | |
| Sound of the compressor running longer than expected | High-efficiency compressor and fans | Larger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds. |
| Pulsating/Whirring | Fans/compressor adjusting to optimize performance during normal compressor operation | This is normal. |
| Popping | Contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially during initial cool-down | This is normal. |
| Hissing/Dripping | Flow of refrigerant, or flow of oil in the compressor | This is normal. |
| Vibration | The refrigerator may not be steady | Adjust the leveling screws and lower the leveling foot firmly against the floor. |
| Rattling/Banging | Movement of the water lines against the refrigerator cabinet, or of items placed on top of the refrigerator cabinet | Move excess water line away from the refrigerator cabinet or fasten excess tubing to the cabinet. |
| “Connecting the Water," or remove items from the top of the refrigerator. | ||
| Sizzling | Water dripping on the heater during defrost cycle | This is normal. |
| Water running/Gurgling | May be heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan | This is normal. |
| Buzzing and Clicking | Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water and/or fill the ice maker. | If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn OFF the ice maker. |
| Repetitive Clicking | Dual evaporator valve regulating the cooling operation | You may hear rapid repetitive clicking sounds as the unit switches from cooling one compartment to cooling the other. This sound is normal. |
| Creaking/Cracking/Grinding | May be heard as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold | This is normal. |
| Clatter | May be heard when the ice falls into the ice storage bin | This is normal. |
| Sizzling | Water dripping on the heater during defrost cycle | This is normal. |
| Water running/Gurgling | May be heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan | This is normal. |
| Buzzing and Clicking | Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water and/or fill the ice maker. | If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn OFF the ice maker. |
| Repetitive Clicking | Dual evaporator valve regulating the cooling operation | You may hear rapid repetitive clicking sounds as the unit switches from cooling one compartment to cooling the other. This sound is normal. |
| Creaking/Cracking/Grinding | May be heard as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold | This is normal. |
| Clatter | May be heard when the ice falls into the ice storage bin | This is normal. |
| The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough ice | The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on. | Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| The ice maker is not turned on. | Make sure the ice maker is on. | |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production. | |
| The refrigerator door is not closed completely. | Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely | |
| A large amount of ice was recently removed. | Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice. | |
| An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm. | Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure. | The water shutoff valve is not fully open. | Turn the water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| Questions remain regarding water pressure. | Call a licensed, qualified plumber. | |
| The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough ice | The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on. | Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| The ice maker is not turned on. | Make sure the ice maker is on. | |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production. | |
| The refrigerator door is not closed completely. | Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely | |
| A large amount of ice was recently removed. | Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice. | |
| An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm. | Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure. | The water shutoff valve is not fully open. | Turn the water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| Questions remain regarding water pressure. | Call a licensed, qualified plumber. | |
| Water is leaking or dripping from the dispenser system NOTE: A few drops of water after dispensing is normal. | The glass was not held under the dispenser long enough. | Hold the glass under the dispenser 2 to 3 seconds after releasing the dispenser lever. |
| Water continues to drip from the dispenser beyond the first few drops. | The refrigerator has just been installed. | Flushing the water system removes the air from the lines which causes the water dispenser to drip. Flush the water system. |
| The water filter was recently installed or replaced. | Flushing the water system removes the air from the lines which causes the water dispenser to drip. Flush the water system. | |
| Water is leaking from the back of the refrigerator | The water line connections were not fully tightened. | |
| Recently removed the doors and did not fully tighten water line connection | ||
| Water from the dispenser is warm | Water from the dispenser is chilled to 50°F (10°C). | This is normal. |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Allow 24 hours after installation for the water supply to cool completely. | |
| A large amount of water was recently dispensed. | Allow 3 hours for the water supply to cool completely. | |
| Water has not been recently dispensed. | The first glass of water may not be cool. Discard the first glass of water dispensed. | |
| The refrigerator is not connected to a cold water pipe. | Make sure the refrigerator is connected to a cold water pipe. |
The Maytag Ice range comprises several models equipped with an ice-maker, as well as an ice dispenser. They feature a humidity control, a vacation mode, a temperature alarm, and a Sabbath mode. The refrigerator compartment has two doors.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | WHAT TO DO |
|---|---|---|
| Freezer control and lights are on, but compressor is not operating | • Refrigerator is in defrost mode. | • Normal operation. |
| Wait 40 minutes to see if refrigerator restarts. | ||
| Temperature-controlled drawers are too warm | • Control settings are too low. | |
| • Freezer controls are set too low. | ||
| • Drawer is improperly positioned. | ||
| Refrigerator does not operate | • Refrigerator is not plugged in. | • Plug in refrigerator. |
| • Touch temperature controls are set to “OFF". | ||
| • Fuse is blown, or circuit breaker needs to be reset | • Replace any blown fuses. Check circuit breaker and reset if necessary. | |
| • Power outage has occurred. | • Call local power company listing to report outage. | |
| Refrigerator still won’t operate | • Refrigerator is malfunctioning. | • Unplug refrigerator and transfer food to another refrigerator. If another refrigerator is not available, place dry ice in freezer section to preserve food. Warranty does not cover food loss. Contact service for assistance. |
| Food temperature is too cold | • Condenser coils are dirty. | |
| • Refrigerator or freezer controls are set too cold. | ||
| • Food is too close to upper left air inlet | • Relocate food. | |
| • Ice bin not locked in place. | ||
| Food temperature is too warm | • Door is not closing properly. | • Refrigerator is not level. |
| • Check gaskets for proper seal. | ||
| • Check for internal obstructions that are keeping door from closing properly (Le. improperly closed drawers, ice buckets, oversized or improperly stored containers, etc.) | ||
| • Controls need to be adjusted. | ||
| • Condenser coils are dirty. | ||
| • Rear air grille is blocked. | • Check the positioning of food items in fresh food compartment to make sure grille is not blocked. Rear air grills are located at the upper left side and under the crisper drawers of the fresh food compartment | |
| • Door has been opened frequently, or has been opened for long periods of time. | • Reduce time door is open. Organize food items efficiently to assure door is open for as short a time as possible. | |
| • Food has recently been added. | • Allow time for recently added food to reach refrigerator or freezer temperature or activate Max Cool to accelerate cooling process. | |
| Refrigerator has an odor | • Odor producing foods should be covered or wrapped. • The interior needs cleaning. | |
| All interior light bulbs are off | • Refrigerator is not plugged in | • Plug in refrigerator. |
| • Fuse is blown or circuit breaker needs to be reset | • Replace any blown fuses. • Check circuit breaker and reset if necessary. | |
| • Doors have been open for six continuous minutes. | • Close all three doors for at least one second. | |
| Water droplets form on inside of refrigerator | • Humidity levels are high or door has been been opened frequently. | • Reduce time door is open. • Organize food items efficiently to assure door is open for as short a time as possible. |
| • Check gaskets for proper seal. | • Clean, if necessary | |
| Refrigerator or ice maker makes unfamiliar sounds or seems too loud | • Normal operation. | |
| Crisper drawers do not close freely | • Contents of drawer or positioning of items in the surrounding compartment could be obstructing drawer. | • Reposition food items and containers to avoid interference with the drawers. |
| • Drawer is not in proper position. | ||
| • Refrigerator is not level. | ||
| • Drawer channels are dirty or need treatment. | • Clean drawer channels with warm, soapy water. • Rinse and dry thoroughly. • Apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly to drawer channels. | |
| Refrigerator runs too frequently | • Doors have been opened frequently or for long periods of time. | • Reduce time door is open. • Organize food items efficiently to assure door is open for as short a time as possible. • Allow interior environment to adjust for period the door has been opened. |
| • Humidity or heat in surrounding area is high. | • Normal operation. | |
| • Food has recently been added. | • Allow time for recently added food to reach refrigerator or freezer temperature. | |
| • Refrigerator is exposed to heat by environment or by appliances nearby. | • Evaluate your refrigerator's environment Refrigerator may need to be moved to run more efficiently. | |
| • Condenser coils are dirty. | ||
| • Controls need to be adjusted. | ||
| • Door is not closing properly. | • Refrigerator is not level. • Check gaskets for proper seal. • Check for internal obstructions that are keeping door from dosing property (i.e. improperly closed drawers, storage bins, oversized or improperly stored containers, etc.) | |
| • Normal operation | ||
| Refrigerator is leaking water | • Plastic tubing was used to complete water connection. | • The manufacturer recommends using copper tubing for installation. Plastic is less durable and can cause leakage. The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. |
| • Improper water valve was installed. | • Check water connection procedure. Self-piercing and *•" saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line over time. The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. | |
| Water flow is slower than normal | • Water pressure is low. | • Water pressure must be between 35 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for refrigerators with water filters. |
| • Improper water valve was installed. | • Check water connection procedure in your Installation Instructions. Self-piercing and V saddle valves cause low water pressure and may clog the line over time. The manufacturer is not responsible for property damage due to improper installation or water connection. Open water valve completely and check for leaks. | |
| • Copper tubing has kinks. | • Turn off water supply and remove kinks. If kinks cannot be removed, replace tubing. | |
| • Water filter is clogged or needs to be changed. | ||
| Ice storage bin will not close | • Ice cube blockage | • Remove spilled ice cube(s) before replacing ice storage bin. |
| Water filter indicator light is red | • Water filter needs to be replaced. | • If filter is not available, replace with bypass filter. |
| • Filter indicator sensor needs to be reset | ||
| Ice forms in inlet tube to ice maker | • Water pressure is too low | • Water pressure must be between 35 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for refrigerators with water filters. |
| • Saddle valve not open completely. | • Open saddle valve completely. | |
| • Freezer temperature is too high. | Freezer temperature should be between 0° to 2° F (-18° to -17° C) to produce ice. | |
| Ice maker is not producing ice | • Ice maker switch is not ON | • Confirm ice maker switch is ON. |
| • Household water supply is not reaching water valve. | ||
| • Copper tubing has kinks. | • Turn off water supply and remove kinks. If kinks cannot be removed, replace tubing. | |
| • Water pressure is too low. | • Water pressure must be between 35 to 100 pounds per square inch to function properly. A minimum pressure of 35 pounds per square inch is recommended for refigerators with water filters. | |
| • Check freezer temperature. | Freezer temperature should be between 0° to 2° F (-18° to -17° C) to produce ice. | |
| • Inner fountain door is blocked or frozen. | • Do not attempt to free the fountain door by continuously pressing the dispenser button. Contact qualified service technician. | |
| Temp Alarm Light is flashing | • Exceeded normal operating temperatures. | |
| All lights on dispenser and interior lights are off and appliance is still running | • Control has been set to Sabbath Mode. | |
| Door alarm set, no alarm sounded | • Alarm mode has been disabled. | • To activate audible alarms |
| Temperatures in display look too low | • Temperature display has been set to Celsius rather than Fahrenheit. |
MSD lineup consists of over two hundreds refrigerators. Many models are discontinued, but some of them are still available. In spite of all the differences, the MSD models have one feature in common: they are side-by-side refrigerators.
| Problem | Solutions |
|---|---|
| Won’t run | • the temperature control turned to “Off' • the power eord not plugged in • no power al the electrical outlet • the circuit breaker tripped or the house fuse blown • refrigerator is in automatic defrost |
| Runs too long/ too frequently | • modem refrigerators are larger and run colder, which requires more running time to provide more stable temperatures • prolonged door openings • the base grille blocked • too many door openings • the door not sealing (due to a package or a container holding door open) • warm room temperature |
| Noisy operation | • the cabinet not level • a weak floor |
| Odor in cabinet | • odor producing foods should be covered or wrapped • the interior needs cleaning |
| Warm air from cabinet bottom | • normal air flow for condenser circulation |
| Cabinet vibrates | • the cabinet not level • a weak floor |
| Moisture on inside cabinet walls | • can occur during hot, humid weather with frequent or prolonged door openings • door not closed properly |
| Excessive moisture in or around crisper | • food not wrapped properly • hot. humid weather |
| No temperature readout in the Climate/one” Technology (select models) drawer display | • the normal setting has been chosen • the drawer has not been opened for four weeks |
| Cabinet light not working | • the bulb burned out • no power at the outlet |
| Refrigerator compartment too warm | • the refrigerator control set too warm • prolonged door openings |
| Refrigerator compartment too cold | • the refrigerator control set too cold |
| Freezer compartment too warm | • the freezer control set too warm • prolonged door openings |
| Visible glow in the freezer vents | • the appcarance of a red glow or reflection is normal during the defrost cycle |
| Freezer not freezing properly | • products with high sugar content may not harden completely when frozen (ice cream, concentrated juice, etc.) • adjust freezer control to a colder setting |
| Water Filter Change Reminder light (select models) comes on when the filter bypass is in place | • This is normal. The control will count down 12 months or 416 gallons whether the filter or the filter bypass is in place. Reset the light |
| Ice cubes evaporate | • cold air moving over the ice cubes causes shrinkage, especially with limited usage. This is normal |
| Automatic ice maker not operating | • the stop arm in OFF (up) position • the water supply turned off • the water pressure too low • the freezer too warm |
| Front cabinet surface warm to the touch | • special design to limit condensation during periods of high humidity |
| Ice dispenser not operating | • ice jam in the dispenser • ice maker not operating • lock switch on |
| Water dispenser not operating | • water supply turned off • water pressure too low • lock switch on |
The Maytag W series includes full-size refrigerators, some of them equipped with ice and cold water dispensers. Many models are side-by-side refrigerator-freezers, but there are also several French door refrigerators.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | WHAT TO DO |
|---|---|---|
| Won’t run | Power cord not plugged in. | Push plug into outlet. |
| No power to outlet | Replace fuse, reset circuit breaker. | |
| Fresh food control set to “OFF” position. | ||
| Refrigerator is in automatic defrost. | Wait 25 minutes for defrost cycle to end. | |
| Room temperature less than 55° F. | Relocate unit to proper climate | |
| Runs too long, too frequently | Today’s refrigerators start and stop more often to maintain even temperatures. | |
| Normal at startup for new or recently installed units. | Wait 24 hours for refrigerator to completely cool down | |
| Prolonged or frequent door openings. | This is normal. Minimize door openings. | |
| Door not sealing. | Check to see if something is preventing door from closing. | |
| Front base grille blocked. | Unblock to allow warm air to exit unit | |
| Light not working | Bulb burned out | Unplug refrigerator and change bulb |
| No power to unit | Check to see if power cord is completely plugged in properly. | |
| Visible glow in freezer vents | Appearance of a red glow or reflection is normal during the defrost cycle. | |
| Warm air from cabinet bottom | This is normal air flow for condenser circulation. | |
| Cabinet vibrates | Cabinet not level. Weak floor. | Level cabinet |
| Odor in cabinet | Odor producing foods not covered. | Cover or wrap odorous foods tightly. Clean cabinet. |
| Noise, sounds and vibrations | Normal noise. | |
| Cabinet not level. | ||
| Freezer, refrigerator too warm | Control set too warm. Prolonged door openings. | Adjust temperature control. Minimize door openings. |
| Room temperature less than 55° F. | Unit will not run often enough to maintain proper temperatures. | |
| Products with high sugar content may not harden completely when frozen. | ||
| Freezer, refrigerator too cold | Control set too cold. | Adjust temperature control. |
| Automatic icemaker not working | Sensor arm in up position. | Adjust sensor arm down to “ON” position. |
| Cabinet not level. | Level unit | |
| Water supply not connected or restricted. | Connect water supply, or clear obstructions. | |
| Freezer too warm. | Adjust freezer temperature control | |
| Ice cubes have odor/taste | Old cubes. | Discard; ice cubes may absorb odors which affect taste. |
| Bad water quality. | Contact local water treatment company. | |
| Food transmitted odor/taste to ice. | Wrap foods tightly. | |
| Ice cubes sticking in tray | Residue from minerals in the water. | Wipe trays with vinegar-soaked cloth until clean. |
| Ice cubes evaporating | Limited use of ice. | Dump old ice cubes. |
| Moisture on cabinet surface between doors | Not unusual during periods of high humidity. | |
| Moisture on inside cabinet walls or in crisper | Hot humid weather. | Normal. |
| Frequent or prolonged door openings. | Minimize door openings. | |
| Door not closed properly. | Check to see if something is preventing door from closing. | |
| Food not wrapped properly. | Wrap or cover all foods tightly. | |
| Foods dry out | Crisper not tightly closed. | Close crisper all the way. |
| Temperature controls set too cold. | Adjust temperature controls | |
| Packages not wrapped or sealed properly. | Wrap or cover all foods tightly. | |
| Excessive moisture in crisper | Hot, humid weather. | Minimize door openings. |
| Humidity slide on crisper needs adjustment. | Slide control to “Fruit” setting to allow more moisture to leave the drawer. | |
| Too much moisture on fresh produce before storing. | Do not wash items prior to storage. Wait to wash fresh items until right before use. | |
| Foods not stored properly. | Store leafy vegetables in a loosely closed plastic bag. Store items with an outer skin G.e. apples, oranges, pears, grapes, cucumbers, etc.) in a vented bag or unwrapped in the drawer. Store mushrooms and berries in original vented cartons or boxes, not in plastic bags. |
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | WHAT TO DO |
|---|---|---|
| Appliance not working | Power outage | Make sure appliance is plugged in. |
| Circuit breaker has tripped | Verify that circuit breaker is not tripped. | |
| Fuse has blown | Replace fuse, but do not change fuse capacity. | |
| Freezer not cooling | Temperature control | Change control setting to 4 or above. |
| Poor gasket seal | Clean gasket as described in Hints and Care. Apply light coating of petroleum jelly to gasket. | |
| Failed gasket | Have gasket replaced | |
| Food added recently | Wait 5 to 8 hours for temperature to stabilize after the addition of large quantities of unfrozen food. | |
| Freezer runs frequently | Normal | Needs to run to maintain an even temperature. |
| Door open | Close door. | |
| Temperature set too cold | Adjust temperature control to maintain freezer temperature. | |
| Poor gasket seal | Clean gasket as described in Hints and Care. Apply light coating of petroleum jelly to gasket. | |
| Poor clearance | Confirm that freezer has proper clearance on each side and vents are unobstructed as specified in Installatbn Instmctions. | |
| Light fails to illuminate | Bad bulb | Replace bulb as described in Hints and Care section. |
| Switch not opening | Clean switch plunger to ensure proper operation. | |
| Bad switch | Have authorized servicer replace switch. | |
| Door lock key will not stay in lock | Normal | Locks have “pop out key" function, preventing the key from being kept in the lock. This feature is to prevent child entrapment. |
| Clicks | Temperature control clicks when starting or stopping compressor. | |
| Gurgles and pops (like boiling water) | Refrigerant flow through evaporator coil. | |
| Hum or pulsing sound | Compressor operation. | |
| Water droplets on outside of freezer | Poor gasket seal | Clean gasket as described in Hints and Care. Apply light coating of petroleum jelly to gasket. |
| Water pooling in floor by freezer | Poor or missing drain plug | Verify that drain plug is properly in place and sealed. Replace drain plug if seal is poor. |