Any modern refrigerator is a complex system, where the majority of parts interact with each other. In case of damage of one part, the entire system can fall out, if a breakdown is not corrected in time. The diagnostics of malfunction contributing to the further professional repairs of a refrigerator is the key objective of troubleshooting tables with faults` codes for whirlpool refrigerators presented below.
Although the Roper refrigerators are manufactured in collaboration with the Whirlpool Corporation (it has been Roper’s parent company since 1989), they have several specific features. The range includes side-by-side, top-freezer and bottom-freezer models.
| Problem | Solutions |
|---|---|
| The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
| A household fuse has blown or circuit breaker has tripped. | Replace the fuse or reset the circuit. |
| The refrigerator is defrosting. | Recheck to see if the refrigerator is operating in 30 minutes. Your refrigerator will regularly run an automatic defrost cycle. If it is still not running after checking the above items, call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
| The lights do not work | |
| The power supply cord is unplugged. | Firmly plug the cord into a live outlet with proper voltage. |
| A household fuse or circuit breaker has tripped. | Replace the fuse or reset the circuit. |
| A light bulb is loose in the socket. | Turn the refrigerator control to OFF. Disconnect the refrigerator from the electrical supply. Gently remove the bulb and reinsert. Then reconnect the refrigerator to the electrical supply and reset the refrigerator control. |
| A light bulb has burned out. | Replace with an appliance bulb of the same wattage, size, and shape. |
| There is water in the defrost drain pan | |
| The refrigerator is defrosting. | The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan. |
| It is more humid than normal. | Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid. |
| Water in the defrost pan is overflowing. | Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
| There is water in the defrost drain pan | |
| The refrigerator is defrosting. | The water will evaporate. It is normal for water to drip into the defrost pan. |
| It is more humid than normal. | Expect that the water in the defrost pan will take longer to evaporate. This is normal when it is hot or humid. |
| Water in the defrost pan is overflowing. | Check to make sure your refrigerator is level. If it is still overflowing there is probably something wrong with the refrigerator. Call the Consumer Assistance Center. |
| The motor seems to run too much | |
| The room temperature is hotter than normal. | At normal room temperatures, expect your motor to run about 40% to 80% of the time. Under warmer conditions, expect your motor to run for longer periods of time. |
| A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator. | Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It is normal for the motor to run longer in order to cool the refrigerator back down. |
| The door is opened often. | Expect the motor to run longer when this occurs. In order to conserve energy, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. |
| The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | |
| The doors arc not closed completely. | Push the doors firmly shut. If they will not shut all the way |
| The condenser coils are dirty. | This prevents air transfer and makes the motor work harder. Clean the condenser coils. |
| The door gaskets are not sealed all the way around. | Contact a qualified person or a technician. |
| The refrigerator seems to make too much noise | |
| The sounds and noises are common for new refrigerators. | |
| Off-tastc or odor in the ice | |
| The plumbing connections are new, causing discolored or off-flavored ice. | Discard the first few batches of ice. |
| The ice cubes have been stored for too long. | Throw old ice away and make a new supply. |
| Food in the freezer has not been wrapped properly. | |
| Freezer and ice bin need to be cleaned. | |
| Water contains minerals (such as sulfur). | A filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals. |
| The divider between the two compartments is warm | |
| The condenser coils are dirty or clogged. | Clean |
| The motor has quit working. | NOTE: The refrigerator temperature may turn from warm to hot. If not due to any of above, the warmth is probably due to normal operation of the automatic exterior moisture control. It still concerned, call the Consumer Assistance Center or an authorized Service company. |
| Temperature is too warm | |
| The air vents are blocked in either compartment. This prevents the movement of cold air from the freezer to the refrigerator. | Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. |
| The door(s) are opened often. | Be aware that the refrigerator will warm when this occurs. In order to keep the refrigerator cool, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. |
| A large amount of food has just been added to the refrigerator or freezer. | Adding a large amount of food warms the refrigerator. It can take several hours for the refrigerator to return to the normal temperature. |
| There is interior moisture build-up | |
| The air vents are blocked in the refrigerator. | Remove any objects from in front of the air vents. |
| The door is opened often. | To avoid humidity build-up, try to get everything you need out of the refrigerator at once, keep food organized so it is easy to find, and close the door as soon as the food is removed. (When the door is opened, humidity from the room air enters the refrigerator. The more often the door is opened, the faster humidity builds up, especially when the room itself is very humid.) |
| The room is humid. | It is normal for moisture to build up inside the refrigerator when the room air is humid. |
| The food is not packaged correctly. | Check that all food is securely wrapped. If necessary, repackage food according to the guidelines in the “Food Storage Guide” section. Wipe off damp food containers before placing in the refrigerator. |
| A self defrost cycle was completed. | It is normal for droplets to form on the back wall after the refrigerator self-defrosts. |
| The doors will not close completely | |
| Food packages are blocking the door open. | Rearrange containers so that they fit more tightly and take up less space. |
| The ice bin is out of position. | Push the ice bin in all the way. |
| The pans, shelves, bins, or baskets are out of position. | Put all pans, shelves, bins, and baskets back into their correct position. |
| The gaskets are dirty. | Clean gaskets |
| The refrigerator is not level. | Level the refrigerator. |
| The doors were removed during product installation and not properly replaced. | Remove and replace the doors |
| The doors are difficult to open | |
| The gaskets are dirty or sticky. | Clean gaskets according |
Mullion Evaporator is a series of top-mount refrigerator/freezers. They have the evaporator located in the mullion divider between the freezer and refrigerator compartment, which is the distinctive feature of this lineup. Also, louvers are located at the front of the freezer floor on these appliances.
| Problem | Cause | Solutions |
|---|---|---|
| Compressor will not start (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.) | 1 .Service cord unplugged 2. No power at outlet 3. Thermostat: a. Turned off b. Points not closed 4. Relay or overload 5. Loose connections 6. Capacitor 7. Motor windings open, shorted or grounded. 8. Timer 9. Compressor stuck | 1 .Plug in electrical outlet 2. Check to confirm 120VAC, 60 Hz at outlet. 3. a. Turn knob dockwise b. Place jumper between terminals. If compressor starts, thermostat is defective and should be replaced. 4. Using a start cord, check compressor diredly, if compressor starts, check relay and overload separately with ohmmeter and replace defedive part. If compressor does not start, call for a qualified service technician. 5. Check drcuit from power source to compressor. 6. Check capacitor and replace if defective. 7. Check winding with ohmmeter. See wiring diagram for resistance values. Replace compressor if motor is defedive. 8. a. Timer may be in defrost cyde. Turn dockwise past 2 o'clock. b. Wired wrong c. Check timer and replace if defedive. 9. Try starting with starting cord. If compres sor won’t start, call for a qualified service technidan. |
| Compressor runs, but no refrigeration or insufficient refrigeration. | 1 .Air circulation on high-side: a. Condenser or grille blocked by lint. b. Condenser fan not running or too slow. c. Unit compartment rear cover not in place. d. Air obstruction in back or above cabinet. 2.Moisture Restriction 3. Permanent Restriction 4. Low Charge or No Charge 5. No Capacity or Low-Capacity Compressor | 1. a. Clean condenser and air passage withvacuum cleaner. b. Check for continuity in fan motor, replace if defedive. c. Put unit compartment rear cover in place. d. Clean condenser or back of cabinet and make sure there is three inches or more of free air space above the cabinet. 2. Call for a qualified service technician. 3. Call for a qualified service technician. 4. Call for a qualified service technician. 5. Call for a qualified service technician. |
| Compressor stops on overload (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.) | 1. High ambient and/or abnormal usage 2. Low or high voltage 3. Capacitor 4. Air circulation on high-side: a. Condenser or grille blocked by lint. b. Condenser fan not running or too slow. c. Unit compartment rear cover not in place. d. Air obstruction in back or above cabinet. 5. Relay and/or Overload 6. Motor winding shorted 7. Overcharge 8. Compressor stuck | 1. On initial pull-down in high ambient, compressor may cut off on overload, instruct customer. 2. Check to confirm 120VAC. 60 Hz at out let. If not correct, a qualified electrician must make repairs. 3. Check capacitor, replace if defective. 4. a. Clean condenser and air passage with vacuum cleaner. b. Check for continuity in fan motor, replace if defective. c. Put unit compartment rear cover in place. d. Clean condenser or back of cabinet and make sure there is three inches or more of free air space above the cabinet. 5. Check each component and replace defective part. 6. Check motor winding with ohmmeter. Replace compressor if motor is defective. Call for a qualified service technician. 7.Call for a qualified service technician. 8.Call for a qualified service technician. |
| Freezer compartment too warm (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.) | 1. Thermostat a. Set too warm b. Sensing tube not properly located c. Out of calibration or not functioning 5. Interior air circulation a. Evaporator Fan not running b. Restriction in air ducts c. Air control open too wide 6. Abnormal use 7. Bad door seal or door not closing 8. High ambient temperature 9. Cabinet light(s) 10. Excessive frost on evaporator unit: a. Compressor won't run b. Compressor runs continuously | 1. a.Turn knob to higher setting. b.See that sensing tube in covered with barrier and properly located. c. Check thermostat for cutin and cut out temperatures, recalibrate or replace. 5. a. Check evaporator fan motor winding, replace if defective. b. Remove obstruction in ducts. c. Adjust rear panel on air tower. 6. Instruct customer 7. a. Adjust door to obtain proper door seal, b. Instruct customer to make sure door closes completely. 8. Locate in area out of direct sunlight and away from air vents and other source of heat. 9. Check to make sure door switch is closed, replace or adjust switch. 10. Check items under “Incomplete Defrosting" a. See “Compressor Won't Run" b. See “Compressor runs, but no refrigeration or insufficient refrigeration." Call for a qualified service technician. |
| Refrigerator compartment too warm (Parts of this diagnosis and service procedure must be performed by a qualified refrigeration system service technician.) | 1. Thermostat a. Set too warm b. Sensing tube not properly located c. Out of calibration or not functioning 2. Air control closed 3. Abnormal use 4. Bad door seal or door not closing 5. High ambient temperature 6. Cabinet light(s) 7. Excessive frost on evaporator unit: a. Compressor won't run b. Compressor runscontinuously | |
| Freezer compartment too cold | 1. Thermostat a. Set too cold b. Sensing tube not properly positioned c. Out of calibration or not functioning 2. Air control closed | a. Turn knob to lower number. b. See that sensing tube is covered by barrier and property located. c. Check thermostat for cut-in and cu-tout temperatures, recalibrate or replace. 2. Adjust rear panel of air tower. |
| Refrigerator compartment too cold | 1. Thermostat a. Set too cold b. Sensing tube not properly positioned c. Out of calibration or not functioning | 1. a.Turn knob to lower setting. b.See that sensing tube is properly positioned and pressed into retainer dips. c. Check thermostat for cut-in and cut-out temperatures, recalibrate or replace. |
| External sweating | 1.Door seal 2. Void in insulation | 1 .Adjust door for proper door seal. 2. Voids are not likely to occur within cabinet walls. If in accessible area, fill with fiberglass. |
| Internal sweating | 1 .Abnormal Use 2. Door seal 3. Insufficient air circulation | 1. Instruct customer to cover foods and liquids. 2. Check door seal and adjust door. Instruct customer to be sure door doses completely. 3. a. Make sure return air flow is not restricted. b. Increase cold air flow by operating refrigerator compartment as cold as possible without freezing food. |
| Incomplete defrosting, or high cabinet temperatures during defrost | 1. Bi-metal 2. Timer 3. Defrost heater 4. Drain clogged | 1. Check bi-metal defrost control. If bimetal opens too soon, defrost will be incomplete and frost will accumulate. If bi-metal is stuck closed or opens too late, high cabinet temperatures will result. A loose bi-metal may cause the defrost heater to stay on too long. Change bi-metal is defective. 2.Check timer for proper operation. Timer should initiate 21-minute defrost cycle every 12 hours. Replace timer if defective. 3. Check defrost heater with ohmmeter. Replace if open or shorted. 4. Clogged drain may result in ice buildup in evaporator. Clean drain system. |
One of the most popular models from the Whirlpool Job Aid range is the GC1SHAXM counter-depth refrigerator. It is a side-by-side fridge equipped with an ice maker. Like many other models in the range, it features an ice dispenser.
| FAILURE | POSSIBLE CAUSE | TEST PROCEDURE—ACTION |
|---|---|---|
| No lights inside the refrigerator. No display indicators except dots in both temperature displays. | The refrigerator is OFF. | Press the ON/OFF keypad for two seconds to turn the unit ON. |
| No indicators illuminate on user interface. Unit may or may not be cooling. | No power to the user interface from the control board. | Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Check circuits/connectors from control board to user interface. Attempt to turn ON unit by pressing the ON/OFF keypad. If unit is cooling, control board is in default mode. If unit is not cooling, unit may be OFF with no way to turn it ON. |
| Code “d" blinking on the refrigerator display. | Air door stuck or open circuit. | Perform resistance checks Verify the proper wire connections to the air door motor and control board. |
| Code “C" blinking on the refrigerator display. | Refrigerator thermistor failure. | Perform resistance checks Verify the proper connections to the main board and the resistance value of the thermistor. Replace the main board. |
| Code “C" blinking on the freezer display. | Freezer thermistor failure. | Perform resistance checks Verify the proper connections to the main board and the resistance value of the thermistor. Replace the main board. |
| Code “CF" blinking on the freezer display. | Communication failure between main board and user interface. | Verify the proper connections & circuits for RX and TX. Replace the user interface and if the problem persists, replace the main board. |
| 18°F (-8°C) or higher temperature reading is blinking on the freezer display. | Over-temperature condition due to power failure. | Verify proper main plug connection. Press the freezer temperature keypad to reset. |
| Code “CF" blinking on the freezer display. | Communication failure between main board and user interface. | Verify the proper connections & circuits for RX and TX. Replace the user interface and if the problem persists, replace the main board. |
| 18°F (-8°C) or higher temperature reading is blinking on the freezer display. | Over-temperature condition due to power failure. | Verify proper main plug connection. Press the freezer temperature keypad to reset. |
| Ice maker not producing any ice. | Loose connections. Ice maker failure. IR receiver relay failure. IR receiver and emitter optics failure. | Verify proper wire connections. Replace the IDI electronic boards. NOTE: In-Door Ice infrared electronic boards used in this product are unique to this product. Other IDI boards fit, but will not allow the icemaker to function. |
| Evaporator fan motor does not run. | Fan motor stuck. Control board may have initiated fan delay. Refrigerator or freezer light switches not closing fan circuit. Loose connection. Control board. | Verify that motor spins freely. Verify that the control board is not in fan delay. Motor rectifies 120 volts AC to DC for operation. Verify both light switches function properly. Verify proper circuit and wire connections back to the control board. Replace the control board. |
| Condenser fan motor does not run. | Fan motor stuck. Control board may have initiated fan delay. No voltage to fan motor. Loose connection. Control board. | Verify that motor spins freely. Verify that the control board is not in fan delay. Motor rectifies 120 volts AC to DC for operation. Verify proper wire circuit and connections back to the control board. Replace the control board. |
| Compressor will not run. | Refrigerator turned OFF. Control board may have initiated delay. Overload or relay failure. Loose/open electrical connections. Compressor is stuck. Control board. | Check the compressor for the following: • Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. • Verify that control board is not in compressor start delay mode. • Verify proper wire connections. • Voltage to main control board is missing, replace the main control board. • Verify that overload and relay are good. If not, replace. • Verify compressor windings are good, and that the compressor is not stuck. Replace compressor, if necessary. |
| Will not defrost. | Defrost heater. Defrost bimetal / thermo fuse. Control board. | Defrost can be initiated by disconnecting and reconnecting power. Main control board will attempt to initiate defrost upon restart: • If bimetal is closed, defrost cycle will start. Relay on main control board will click one time. • If bimetal or defrost circuit is open, defrost cycle will not start, and the cooling cycle will begin. Relay on main control board will click twice (once to initiate defrost and the second time to switch back to cooling). Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Check for loose electrical connections. If all checks out, replace the main control board. |
| Refrigerator too cold or too warm. | Air door may be stuck or frozen open. User interface may be malfunctioning. | Check air door operation. Unplug refrigerator or disconnect power. Check resistance of refrigerator thermistor. Replace user interface. |
Whirlpool has several French door refrigerators with freezers at the bottom. Their capacity varies from 19.7 to 27 cu. ft. Some models boast such innovative options as a dual ice maker and a five-temperature option drawer with thaw setting.
| PROBLEM | POSSIBLE CAUSES | SOLUTIONS |
|---|---|---|
| The refrigerator will not operate | Check electrical supply | Plug the power cord into a grounded 3 prong outlet. Do not use an extension cord. |
| Make sure there is power to the outlet. Plug in a lamp to see if the outlet is working. | ||
| Reset a tripped circuit breaker. Replace any blown fuses. NOTE: If problems continue, contact an electrician. | ||
| Check controls | Make sure the controls are turned on. S | |
| New installation | Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely. NOTE: Adjusting the temperature controls to the coldest setting will not cool either compartment more quickly. | |
| Refrigerator control is in Showroom mode (on some models) | If the refrigerator is in Showroom mode, cooling is turned off and “Showroom” will be illuminated on the control panel. | |
| The motor seems to run too much | High efficiency compressor and fans | Larger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds. |
| The room or outdoor temperature is hot. | It is normal for the refrigerator to work longer under these conditions. For optimum performance, place the refrigerator in an indoor, temperature controlled environment. | |
| A large amount of warm food has been recently added. | Warm food will cause the refrigerator to run longer until the air cools to the desired temperature. | |
| The door(s) are opened too frequently or for too long. | Warm air entering the refrigerator causes it to run more. Open the door less often. | |
| The refrigerator door or freezer drawer is ajar. | Make sure the refrigerator is level. Keep food and containers from blocking the door. | |
| The refrigerator control is set too cold. | Adjust the refrigerator control to a less cold setting until the refrigerator temperature is as desired. | |
| The door or drawer gasket is dirty, worn, or cracked. | Clean or change the gasket. Leaks in the door seal will cause the refrigerator to run longer in order to maintain desired temperatures. | |
| The lights do not work | Your refrigerator is equipped with LED lighting which does not need to be replaced. | If there is power to the refrigerator and the lights do not illuminate when a door or drawer is opened, call for service or assistance. |
| The dispenser light is set to OFF | On some models, the dispenser light will operate only when a dispenser paddle is pressed. If you want the dispenser light to stay on continuously | |
| Doors have been open longer than 10 minutes | Close the doors and drawer to reset, and open to resume lighted task. | |
| Pantry Temperature Control not lit/unresponsive | The refrigerator is in Cooling Off mode | Exit Cooling Off mode. |
| The refrigerator controls’ initialization process did not complete successfully. | Unplug the refrigerator, wait 5 seconds. Plug in the refrigerator, and wait 30 seconds before opening any of the refrigerator doors or touching the control panel. | |
| The refrigerator seems noisy Below are listed some normal sounds with explanations. | The compressor in your new refrigerator regulates temperature more efficiently while using less energy, and operates quietly. Due to this reduction in operating noise you may notice unfamiliar noises that are normal. | |
| Sound of the compressor running longer than expected | High-efficiency compressor and fans | Larger, more efficient refrigerators run longer at lower, more energy efficient speeds. |
| Pulsating/Whirring | Fans/compressor adjusting to optimize performance during normal compressor operation | This is normal. |
| Popping | Contraction/expansion of inside walls, especially during initial cool-down | This is normal. |
| Hissing/Dripping | Flow of refrigerant, or flow of oil in the compressor | This is normal. |
| Vibration | The refrigerator may not be steady | Adjust the leveling screws and lower the leveling foot firmly against the floor. |
| Rattling/Banging | Movement of the water lines against the refrigerator cabinet, or of items placed on top of the refrigerator cabinet | Move excess water line away from the refrigerator cabinet or fasten excess tubing to the cabinet. |
| Sizzling | Water dripping on the heater during defrost cycle | This is normal. |
| Water running/Gurgling | May be heard when ice melts during the defrost cycle and water runs into the drain pan | This is normal. |
| Buzzing and Clicking | Heard when the water valve opens and closes to dispense water and/or fill the ice maker. | If the refrigerator is connected to a water line, this is normal. If the refrigerator is not connected to a water line, turn OFF the ice maker. |
| Repetitive Clicking | Dual evaporator valve regulating the cooling operation | You may hear rapid repetitive clicking sounds as the unit switches from cooling one compartment to cooling the other. This sound is normal. |
| Creaking/Cracking/Grinding | May be heard as ice is being ejected from the ice maker mold | This is normal. |
| Clatter | May be heard when the ice falls into the ice storage bin | This is normal. |
| Temperature is too warm | The refrigerator has just been installed. | Allow 24 hours following installation for the refrigerator to cool completely. |
| Cooling is turned off. | Turn on cooling. | |
| The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | Adjust the controls a setting colder. Check the temperature in 24 hours. | |
| The door(s) are opened often or not closed completely. | Allows warm air to enter refrigerator. Minimize door openings and keep doors fully closed. | |
| A large load of food was recently added. | Allow several hours for refrigerator to return to normal temperature. | |
| Temperature is too cold in the refrigerator/crisper | The refrigerator air vent(s) are blocked. | If the air vent located in the top, left, rear corner of the refrigerator compartment is blocked by items placed directly in front of it, the refrigerator will get too cold. Move items away from the air vent. |
| The controls are not set correctly for the surrounding conditions. | Adjust the controls a setting warmer. Check the temperature in 24 hours. | |
| The ice storage bin is not in the correct position. | ||
| Temperature is too cold in the pantry drawers | The control is not set correctly for the items stored in drawer. | Adjust the temperature setting. |
| There is interior moisture buildup. NOTE: Some moisture buildup is normal. | The room is humid | A humid environment contributes to moisture buildup. |
| The door(s) are opened often or not closed completely. | Allows humid air to enter the refrigerator. Minimize door openings and close doors completely. | |
| The door is blocked open | Move food packages away from door. | |
| A bin or shelf is in the way | Push bin or shelf back into the correct position. | |
| Storing liquid in open containers | This adds humidity to the refrigerator interior. Keep all containers tightly covered. | |
| There is frost/ice buildup in the freezer compartment | The drawer is opened often or left open. | Minimize drawer openings and close drawer completely after use. |
| Poor door seal | Ensure door seals are making full contact with the refrigerator cabinet to allow for an adequate seal. | |
| Temperature controls are not set correctly | See recommended temperature settings. | |
| The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough ice | The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on. | Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| The ice maker is not turned on. | Make sure the ice maker is on. | |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production. | |
| The refrigerator door is not closed completely. | Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely | |
| A large amount of ice was recently removed. | Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice. | |
| An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm. | Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure. | The water shutoff valve is not fully open. | Turn the water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| Questions remain regarding water pressure. | Call a licensed, qualified plumber. | |
| The ice maker is not producing ice or is not producing enough ice | The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on. | Connect refrigerator to water supply and turn water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| The ice maker is not turned on. | Make sure the ice maker | |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Wait 24 hours after ice maker installation for ice production to begin. Wait 3 days for full ice production. | |
| The refrigerator door is not closed completely. | Close the door firmly. If it does not close completely | |
| A large amount of ice was recently removed. | Allow sufficient time for ice maker to produce more ice. | |
| An ice cube is jammed in the ice maker ejector arm. | Remove ice from the ejector arm with a plastic utensil. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove the water filter and operate the ice maker. If ice volume improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| The ice cubes are hollow or small NOTE: This is an indication of low water pressure. | The water shutoff valve is not fully open. | Turn the water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line. | A kink in the line can reduce water flow. Straighten the water source line. | |
| A water filter is installed on the refrigerator. | Remove filter and operate ice maker. If ice quality improves, then the filter may be clogged or incorrectly installed. Replace filter or reinstall it correctly. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | This can decrease water pressure. | |
| Questions remain regarding water pressure. | Call a licensed, qualified plumber. | |
| Off-taste, odor or gray color in the ice or water | Newly installed refrigerator requires flush of water system. | Flush the water system. |
| Recently installed or replaced plumbing connections. New plumbing connections can cause discolored or off-flavored ice and water. | Discard the ice and wash the ice storage bin. Flush the water system with 3 gal. (12 L) of water. Allow 24 hours for the ice maker to make new ice, and discard the first 3 batches of ice produced. | |
| Using a water supply connection type other than recommended. | It is recommended to use copper tubing or Whirlpool supply line, Part Number 8212547RP. | |
| The ice has been stored too long. | Discard ice. Wash ice storage bin. Allow 24 hours for ice maker to make new ice. | |
| The water has been stored too long. | Dispense at least 1 qt (1 L) of water per week to maintain a fresh supply. | |
| Odor from stored food has transferred to the ice. | Use airtight, moisture proof packaging to store food. | |
| There are minerals (such as sulfur) in the water. | A water filter may need to be installed to remove the minerals. | |
| There is a water filter installed on the refrigerator. | Gray or dark discoloration in ice may indicate that the water filtration system needs additional flushing. Flush the water system after installing and before using a new water filter. | |
| The water filter needs to be replaced. | Replace the disposable water filter at least every 6 months or when indicated. | |
| The water and ice dispenser will not operate properly | The refrigerator is not connected to a water supply or the water supply shutoff valve is not turned on. | Connect the refrigerator to the water supply and turn the water shutoff valve fully open. |
| There is a kink in the water source line | A kink in the water line can reduce water flow from the water dispenser and result in hollow or irregular shaped ice. Straighten the water source line. | |
| The refrigerator has just been installed. | Flush and fill the water system. | |
| The water pressure to the house is not at or above 35 psi (241 kPa). | The water pressure to the house determines the flow from the dispenser. | |
| A reverse osmosis water filtration system is connected to your cold water supply. | A reverse osmosis water filtration system can decrease water pressure. | |
| The water filter may be clogged. | Remove the water filter and operate dispenser. If water flow increases, your filter is clogged and needs to be replaced. | |
| The water filter is installed incorrectly | Remove the water filter and reinstall. | |
| The refrigerator door or freezer drawer is not closed completely. | Close the door or drawer firmly. If it does not close completely | |
| The refrigerator doors were recently removed. | Make sure the water dispenser wire/tube assembly has been properly reconnected at the top of the refrigerator door. | |
| Ice is clogged in the ice storage bin or ice is blocking the ice delivery chute. | Remove the ice clogging the storage bin and delivery chute, using a plastic utensil if necessary. Clean the ice delivery chute and the bottom of the ice storage bin using a warm, damp cloth, then dry both thoroughly. To avoid clogging and to maintain a fresh supply of ice, empty the storage bin and clean both the storage bin and delivery chute every 2 weeks. | |
| The doors will not close completely | The door is blocked open. | Move food packages away from door. |
| A bin or shelf is in the way. | Push bin or shelf back into the correct position. | |
| Recently installed | Remove all packaging materials. | |
| The doors arc difficult to open | The door gaskets arc dirty or sticky. | Clean gaskets and contact surfaces with mild soap and warm water. Rinse and dry with soft cloth. |
| The doors appear to be uneven | The doors need to be aligned, or the refrigerator needs to be leveled. | |
| The refrigerator is unsteady or it rolls forward when opening and closing doors | The refrigerator brake feet are not snug against the floor | Remove the base grille. Turn both brake feet (one on each side) clockwise, the same amount, until they are snug against the floor. |
| PROBLEM | CHECK THE FOLLOWING |
|---|---|
| Freezer stops running | • Is the power cord plugged into a live circuit with the proper voltage? |
| • Is there a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker? | |
| • Has local power failed? | |
| • Is the Temperature Control set to a numbered setting? | |
| Motor seems to run too long | • Is there excessive frost or a package preventing the door from closing? Defrost and clean freezer or move package so door closes properly. |
| • Has a large amount of unfrozen food been added to the freezer? The motor will naturally run longer. Add no more unfrozen food at one time than will freeze in 24 hours - approximately 2-3 lbs. per cubic foot of freezer space. | |
| • Is the day hot and muggy or the room too warm? The motor will naturally run longer to provide the correct amount of cooling. | |
| • Is there enough air circulation space around the freezer? |