Boilers Central are real module boiler houses and possess a number of advantages, to which the own troubleshooting system refers. It is given below in form of a chart. Refer to it in case of malfunction of an appliance to sort out the essence of a breakdown and remove it.
| Problens | Cause | Solitions |
|---|---|---|
| Outdoor furnace does not heat (building is losing temperature) | Out of wood | Check firebox to see if fire is out. Add wood as necessary. Use good quality wood since poor quality wood will have very short burn times. |
| Circulation valve(s) closed | Be sure all valves in the system are open. | |
| Circuit breaker off | Check the circuit breaker that supplies power to the outdoor furnace. If the circuit breaker has tripped, determine the cause before resetting it. | |
| Circulation punip(s) not operating | Check that circulation pumps are operating. If not, disconnect power to the pump. Close valves at the pump. Disassemble the pump and try to turn the pump shaft. If the shaft is stuck, replace the pump cartridge. Replace only the cartridge whenever possible. If necessary, replace the pump. Follow instructions supplied with the pump. | |
| Air in system | Check for air in the water lines or heat exchangers. If you hear a gurgling sound in a heat exchanger, air is present in the system. Shut off the pump, wait 15 seconds and start the pump. | |
| Outdoor furnace exhaust obstructed | Check furnace exhaust for obstructions by observing the amount of smoke coming out of the chimney with the firebox door slightly ajar. If smoke seems very restricted, remove the firewood and hot coals; then check the chimney (top and bottom) and behind the baffle for obstructions. | |
| Building(s) poorly insulated or uninsulated | Poorly insulated or uninsulated buildings, buildings with uninsulated or poorly insulated ceilings, or a lack of proper insulation under radiant flooring can cause excessive fuel consumption and/or heating problems. | |
| Supply and return lines installed incorrectly | Make sure the hot supply water line is connected to the correct fitting on the outdoor furnace and heat exchanger. | |
| Circulation pump(s) installed backwards | Check that pump flow direction is correct. If not, shut off power to pump. If the flow is not in the correct direction, disconnect pump from water line and reverse pump mounting to correct flow direction. If the pump is not mounted on the outdoor furnace, check for proper pump mounting location. | |
| Underground supply and return lines insulated poorly | Heat loss from poorly insulated underground supply and return lines is often indicated by an unusually high amount of snow melting above the lines when the ground temperature is 10° F or colder. | |
| Supply and return lines uninsulated | Uninsulated supply and return lines in areas that are not intended to be heated (unheated crawl spaces, etc.) may cause excessive heat loss. Insulate the supply and return lines. | |
| Poor water quality | Water with high amounts of solids, sand or dirt can create deposits inside the wall of heat exchanger components, reducing the amount of heat output. If this condition is suspected, contact your Central Boiler dealer. | |
| Burner not operating properly | See section H and/ or troubleshoot burner according to manufacturer's instructions. Ensure the firebox door is closed and the door switch is operating properly. | |
| Outdoor furnace is overheating | Air entering through the firebox door or smoke coming out of the firebox door when the door is closed - Make sure the firebox door is properly latched and check the condition of the door rope. | If it is not sealing properly (indicated by a uniform indentation in the rope), replace the rope. If door does not close tightly, adjust using the appropriate procedure (see Owner Serviceable Items). |
| Air entering through the damper | Check to be sure the damper is operating correctly as explained in section A.4. Be sure the damper closes all the way and that no obstructions are present. The damper can wear a groove or the bracket can loosen over time. If that is the case, the damper may need replacement and/or the bracket may need to be adjusted and tightened. If the solenoid is sticking, lubricate with silicone spray or a light petroleum distillate (WD^tt) or equivalent). Check linkage for binding, or for a missing or broken spring. | |
| Temperature controller set incorrectly | The temperature controller should not be set above 195°F. | |
| Water is not circulating | The pump should run continuously and water needs to circulate continuously through the supply and return lines to keep water temperature uniform in the outdoor furnace. | |
| Circulation valve(s) closed | Be sure the proper valves in the system are open to allow circulation. | |
| Solenoid does not operate | Fuse blown | Check the fuse. Check damper and solenoid area for obstructions or damage. Be sure the damper door operates properly: then replace the fuse. |
| Solenoid not operating properly | Solenoid may- be damaged. If so. be sure to check the linkage for free movement and for creosote buildup between the damper door and draft opening. Replace the solenoid if burned out or stuck in the open position. Check that the spring-loaded linkage and damper door are not binding and that the spring is not broken or missing. The solenoid is an owner serviceable item | |
| Frequent pump trouble or poor water circulation | Pump mounted incorrectly | If the pump is not mounted on the outdoor furnace, it must be mounted at a minimum of four feet lower than either the top water level in the outdoor furnace or the highest point of the hot supply lines. Make sure the pump motor is installed in a horizontal position. The junction box must not be located below the pump motor. If necessary, remove the four screws and rotate the pump body. |
| Deposits in water lines/heat exchanger wails | If water high in silica or other mineral content has been used, material deposits may build up on the insides of the supply and return lines and on the heat exchanger walls. If this occurs, the system will need to be drained and then cleaned using Sludge Conditioner (p/n 166). The system must then be refilled with the proper amount of Corrosion Inhibitor Plus™ (p/n 1650) and fresh water. | |
| Water will not circulate | If the system has been drained and refilled, or if the system has been opened for any reason (e.g.. replacement of pump, adding heat exchangers, repairing a leak), the system must be purged (see Initial Start-up Procedures). | |
| Poor water quality | Water with high amounts of solids, sand or dirt can cause frequent pump failure. Use softened and/or filtered water. | |
| Erratic temperature reading on gauge | Return water too cold | Water circulation may be too slow. The return water should be no more than 20oF-25°F less than the hot supply water. If the water returning to the outdoor furnace is too cold, it may cause erratic temperature readings. Check for partial air lock or install larger pump. |
| Burning an excessive amount of wood | High volume water heating | High volume water heating (e.g., car wash, swimming pool, etc.) will require high wood consumption. |
| Excessive heat loss | See items 9-12 of Outdoor Furnace Does Not Heat. | |
| Air entering through door | See item 1 of Outdoor Furnace is Overheating. | |
| Excessive draft | If a very tall extension is added to the chimney, the increased draw through the draf t may cause excessive wood consumption. Decreasing the draft opening may increase efficiency and reduce wood consumption. | |
| Supply and return line heat loss | If supply and return lines are buried in a wet, low-lying area, there may be a large heat loss which would greatly increase wood consumption. | |
| High heat demand | Concrete slabs (with radiant heat) that are poorly insulated or are exposed to water or cold outside temperatures will require increased wood consumption (see Hydronic Installations section). Bringing a concrete slab up to temperature the first time will take a considerable amount of time and wood; once warm, wood consumption will be reduced if the concrete slab and building are insulated properly. The following will also have a high heat demand: poorly insulated buildings, buildings with large amounts of glass windows/ doors, buildings with overhead doors, greenhouses, uninsulated crawl spaces, outdoor air infiltration and air leaking through foundation. | |
| Controller led display messages | Controller displays "*oo" or " | Temperature sensing probe has failed. Replace the temperature sensing probe. If controller displays same message after sensing probe has been replaced, replace the digital temperature controller. |
| Controller displays " or "•Er"; | Controller may display erratic readings or incomplete numbers - Digital temperature controller may have failed. Replace the digital temperature controller. | |
| Gas burner is not operating or not performing properly | Fuel source empty | Check that the fuel source (e.g.. propane tank) is not empty. |
| Valve closed | Check that the valve on the fuel source and on the outdoor furnace are open. | |
| Control switch turned off | Check that the control valve on top of the gas valve is turned to the ON position. | |
| Burner tube close-off not opening | Check that there is power to the damper actuator. Contact your Central Boiler Dealer or a qualified technician for further assistance. | |
| Gas burner motor not starting | If the gas burner motor fails to start, check that the damper position switch is closing. Contact your Central Boiler Dealer or a qualified technician for further assistance. | |
| Gas burner does not light | Contact a qualified technician for further assistance. |